Off the Menu: Hwa Yuan Szechuan From the Owners of Shorty Tang Noodles Opens

The Peking duck oven at Hwa Yuan Szechuan.

Credit
An Rong Xu for The New York Times

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HWA YUAN SZECHUAN Chen Lieh Tang is back to opening restaurants. His father, Yun Fa Tang, known as Shorty, arrived in New York in 1963 and introduced Sichuan food and notably sesame noodles. Chen Lien Tang put the family name on many restaurants before retiring to spend time in China, New York and Taiwan. But he recently became bored. “He’s getting old, and he felt the need to do it again, one last time,” said his son, James Tang, who is also involved in the business. Last spring, the family opened Shorty Tang Noodles in Chelsea. Now, they have installed a grand restaurant seating about 350 on three floors in the family-owned building (formerly the Bank of China) next door to where Shorty Tang, who died at 50, opened his original Hwa Yuan restaurant in 1968. (The restaurant closed in the 1980s.) The elder Mr. Tang, now 66, designed the new restaurant, seeing to every detail, including richly hand-carved doors he brought from China. “I’m going to remake history here,” he said. “Sesame noodles, fine scallion pancakes, Sichuan kung pao chicken done simply, the way it’s supposed to be, just with chiles and garlic.” He will also serve some banquet dishes on a menu that leans toward Sichuan heat but not exclusively so. He plans to try new ideas, he said, because “times have changed.” Among them are raw-bar selections displayed at one end of the bar in the front dining room, and cheesecake for dessert. (Opens Thursday): 42 East Broadway (Catherine Street), 212-966-6002.

Opening

ELEVEN MADISON PARK A premier restaurant in New York, and (perhaps it’s worth saying) the world, is poised to reopen after a long-overdue four-month renovation, not just to the dining room and bar but also to the kitchen. The partners, Will Guidara and the chef Daniel Humm, will present a more open, welcoming approach with a wide aisle in the center. The bar will only have a tasting menu for $155, with no à la carte options. The dining room menu is $295 for eight to 10 courses. (Sunday): 11 Madison Avenue (24th Street), 212-889-0905, elevenmadisonpark.com.

BYGGYZ The wait for Dewey Dufresne, father of the chef Wylie Dufresne, to open his Lower East Side sandwich shop is finally over. It’s on Clinton Street, where the Dufresnes had previously set up shop at two locations and the elder Mr. Dufresne patrolled the front of the house. The sandwiches ($12.50 to $16.50), with Chauceresque names like Byggypyggy, are multilayered, heavily condimented affairs centered on beef, poultry or pork, best on toasted semolina hero bread and eaten warm while standing at the window counter (there are only a couple of seats). Something called the Tuna SOF (South of France), an attempt at pan bagnat, doesn’t ooze olive oil, and is served on marble rye, not on a roll. An ice cream sandwich on a Wylie Dufresne doughnut is $7.75: 37-39 Clinton Street (Stanton Street), byggyz.com.

W SHANGHAI — THE BUND To promote the opening of this new, far-flung link in its chain, W Hotels is offering New Yorkers a pop-up taste of Shanghai by the chef Danny Bowien of Mission Chinese Food. A bicycle cart, typical of Shanghai, will be piled with Dungeness crab dumplings inspired by xiao long bao (Shanghai soup dumplings) that will be given free to passers-by. (Tuesday, Oct. 10, noon to 5 p.m.): Lower Manhattan location to be announced at instagram.com/whotels on Monday.

HUDSON HALL Primed for Oktoberfest, this new beer hall and smokehouse with Eastern European leanings dispenses craft beers in many styles from 22 taps and bottles; it also serves wine and cocktails. The menu, by the chef Dan Hoose, formerly of Dinosaur Bar-B-Que, features smoky meats, seafood and even vegetables like garlic, along with many pickled and fermented items. Monkfish pastrami and fermented black radishes are intriguing specialties: 364 Marin Boulevard, Jersey City, 201-659-6565, hudsonhalljc.com.

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