The Top 10 Moments of Milan Fashion Week
Not anymore. This time around Etro and Missoni joined Bottega Veneta and Gucci in merging men’s and women’s wear, and the results were additive: a richer, deeper visual portrait that showed in high-res how a designer’s vision could iterate for the sexes, and how the wardrobe lessons — and fabrics, and tonal combinations — of one gender are transferable to the other (and vice versa). Perhaps it’s time fashion caught up to the rest of the world, and stopped separating its citizens once and for all. — V.F.
Jeremy Scott Gave Us a Garden of Supermodels in Bloom
Jeremy Scott likes to root his collections in the unashamedly and unequivocally absurd. On Thursday night, this premise blossomed into the idea of a vibrant garden full of flowers, brought to life by the starriest models of the moment.
How exactly did his Moschino garden grow? With Gigi Hadid and Kaia Gerber as walking bouquets, with glossy ribbons around their waists and flowers blooming from their boots and dresses of paper folds. Joan Smalls had a skirt of quivering red roses with stalks sticking out of her bustier, while Anna Cleveland, shrouded in giant silk pink petals, plucked them from her bodice as she made her way down the runway. Then came flower-encrusted cat suits and car coats, both with round matching hats, and a giant lilac puffball dress, embroidered with hundreds of floating butterflies.
It was ridiculous and outrageous and yet also sublime. Backstage, Mr. Scott said that this was his intention, as the world becomes an evermore volatile and unstable place. “You know in the Depression era, when people went to see a double feature for a nickel and they would be transported from the fact they had no food, no job?” he said. “ I have to stay superpositive, because I have to give that positivity to people.” Never have florals as a spring trend felt so fitting. — E.P.
It Turns Out Logomania Is Here to Stay
And you thought the weird trend of wearing someone else’s initials all over your person was over. As if! This is fashion: everything old is new again. Gucci once splashed its name across sweatshirts, Versace plastered its logo on pastel T-shirts, MaxMara resurrected an archive logo and transformed it into a print on skirts and jackets and bags (often all worn together), and Fendi printed its double F on mink jackets, totes, belts, nylon mesh skirts and even transparent socks. “It’s a way for everyone to be part of our family,” said Silvia Fendi before her show. It’s less of a commitment than marriage, anyway. — V.F.
Vionnet Brought Us to ‘The Last Supper’
The Vionnet designer Goga Ashkenazi created ethereal gowns for her spring 2018 collection, but her greatest accomplishment was a feat of access: She became the first person to stage a runway show in the Basilica di Santa Maria Delle Grazie, a former convent and Unesco World Heritage site in the heart of Milan. The site is home to the city’s most famous wall mural, “The Last Supper” by Leonardo da Vinci, commissioned in the 15th century by Ludovico Sforza, the Duke of Milan.
Just before 9 in the evening, after Ms. Ashkenazi took her bow, a small group of editors were given a private viewing of the work, in the quiet, high-ceilinged refectory of the basilica. It was certainly the most spiritual moment of Milan fashion week. — ALEXA BRAZILIAN, fashion features director, T magazine
At Prada, Short Hair Was Everywhere
In 1988, the hairdresser Julien D’ys took his scissors to Linda Evangelista’s shoulder-length brown hair and gave her a short, boyish pixie haircut. The look inspired copycats everywhere — as it had 20 years earlier with Twiggy, the ’60s supermodel. Now, after several years of long, wavy beach hair, short-haired models are back. At Prada, several women had sported short, boyish haircuts, including Amandine Renard, who is on the latest cover of Self Service magazine; Ninouk Akkerman; a platinum Sarah Fraser; Akima; and the newcomer Gisele Fox, who closed the show. Hairdressers can rejoice: Your clients will likely be asking for a cut after all these years. — M.J.G.
We Got a Peek at Some of the Magic Interiors of Milan
Some of the best sights to be seen in Milan can be found behind the closed doors of the city’s many centuries-old private homes. During fashion week, a few of them were opened to host special presentations and parties. Delfina Pinardi, Corrada Rodriguez D’Acri and Sole Torlonia, the stylish designers behind the jacket line Blazé Milano, presented their spring offering in the only building on the via Borgonuovo that survived World War II bombings in 1943. The ornate ground-floor apartment has been owned by a Milanese family for generations. A parrot lives in the house’s quiet back garden, where a few models wearing the brand’s tailored blazers and dresses swung on a hammock while editors sipped cocktails.
Attico, a new label started by two young Italian tastemakers, staged what felt like an insanely elegant house party in the living room of a privately owned apartment decorated by the Italian interior designer Renzo Mongiardino. There were pink margaritas and models clad in ’60s-inspired disco-ready dresses and jumpsuits. And in the evening, Alison Loehnis, the president of Net-a-Porter, hosted a cocktail party in a fresco-filled private villa with an expansive garden dating back to the 13th century, adding a touch of old-school Italian magic to the week’s festivities. — A.B.
Angela Missoni Celebrated a Big Anniversary
To celebrate 20 years as creative director of the label her parents started, Angela Missoni designed a spring collection that was shown alfresco under a rainbow-colored canopy created by Rachel Hayes, an artist Ms. Missoni had found on Instagram. The show, which was also one year shy of Missoni’s 65th anniversary, was the first time the Italian label combined men’s and women’s styles, and it included recognizable totems of the brand including interpretations of its colorful zigzag pattern and lots of sparkly party-ready Lurex. In the evening, Missoni threw a lavish family-style dinner party for editors and friends, serving Italian dishes including fresh ricotta sprinkled with pomegranates and providing a satisfying end to a long and colorful week. — A.B.
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