Front Burner: From a Master Chef, Grandfatherly Advice

In his many decades at the stove, the chef Jacques Pépin has accumulated a priceless depth of knowledge, and he communicates it freely, with wit and self-effacing charm. Any novice cook, not just a teenager, has much to gain as Mr. Pépin describes cooking with his 13-year-old granddaughter in his new book, “A Grandfather’s Lessons.” The first? Cook as a family. Second and third (and these are from his granddaughter) are to set a table properly and practice good manners. Mr. Pépin gives lessons in sourcing ingredients like fish, then provides an easy microwave horseradish cream sauce for fillets. Experienced cooks should note a mayonnaise-based dressing called “mayogrette,” and how buttered, sugared bread fingers become emergency cookies. Mr. Pépin also delivers an excellent caramel tutorial. Yet for all his Gallic expertise, he does not ignore ribs and hot dogs: “A Grandfather’s Lessons: In the Kitchen with Shorey,” by Jacques Pépin (Rux Martin/Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, $30).

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